Wally Win Photos

Better late than never. I finally received (2 months late) the winners circle photos from my June win in Joliet.

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Team Thug

It is calendar season again. Time to order wall calendars for the 2015 year. The below are lo-res versions of the hi-res images used to make the Team Thug Drag Race Cars of NSS. All of these ran in the 2014 season and are expected to return for 2015.

This calendars make for excellent Christmas gift, and the images are also available on items like can coolers, coffee mugs, cufflinks,….

The small profit made on each calendar goes towards the expenses of maintaining the www.NSSRacing.com web site and forums.

To view the items available — click here.

Team Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag Racingsmalltt5Team Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag RacingTeam Thug Wall Calendar - NSS DRag Racing

Mopar Wall Calendar

It is calendar season again. Time to order wall calendars for the 2015 year. The below are lo-res versions of the hi-res images used to make the Dodge & Plymouth Drag Race Cars of NSS. All of these can in the 2014 season and are expected to return for 2015.

This calendars make for excellent Christmas gift, and the images are also available on items like can coolers, coffee mugs, cufflinks,….

The small profit made on each calendar goes towards the expenses of maintaining the www.NSSRacing.com web site and forums.

To view the items available — click here.

Mopar Wall Calendar CoverMopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page Mopar Wall Calendar Page

Route 66 Winner Circle Photos

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Norwalk 2014 Sponsor Report

NHRA Wally for Dallas

August 28, 2014

Dave Schultz

Dallas-Wally-1000Still on a high of again racing my wagon and winning a NHRA Wally last month in Joliet, Tuesday we loaded the rig and left on the two day (and 1300 mile) trip to Norwalk, Ohio. We arrived at the track late Wednesday night. Thursday we were parked, set up our pit, established credentials, and teched our cars in.

10653604_10202550744705590_5483817680873651868_nBecause there were so many cars for the event, we had a maximum of two Time Trials — if we could get them in by 11:30 Friday morning — which we did. Rain was expected for the entire weekend, and the adjusted altitude was high — so all of the 24 cars in NSS index were running slower. Many had to change their indexes to one slower.

10550920_10202527845413122_8135289050767528132_nIn the 1st of 4 rounds of Qualifying — I ran a .004 off my Index — but Skippy bumped me from Top Qualifier to 2nd with his .001 by the 4th round. Dallas was having an issue getting an handle on his car until the 4th round — but did still wind up on the Top half of the Qualifying Roster.

Barry Dorn is 50 points ahead of me for the Championship — but qualified on the bottom half, so his lead has been narrowed.

10397818_10202534143650574_6149261859940757116_n 10475338_686622461406696_74956773152723377_nEliminations started early Saturday morning – and I screwed up in the first round with a .004 Red light. Fortunately (for my chance for the Championship Ring) Barry Dorn also lost in his first round.

10612990_686622488073360_6576732520706964432_nJust as fortunately, Dallas was able to win his 1st round against Fred Rader .

10649747_686622498073359_5035325456518024212_nDallas met Doug Wright (who had just defeated Barry Dorn) in the 2nd round and won. In the 3rd round, Dallas won over Joe Midile, who I’d red lit against in the 1st and had a broke bye in the 2nd.

Dallas earned a bye in the Semis from Midile, who had won it from my 2nd place Qualifying. He ran a 9.746 on his 9.75 index in the bye.

In the Finals Dallas was paired with Newmeyer. If you know these racers that he ran — you’ll know all are very good racers. Newmeyer had an excellent (.00 something) light and Dallas realized his light (turned out to be a .070) was not so good — so he decided he needed to push Newmeyer out if he was to have any chance to win. Newmeyer did take the stripe, which had him break out by .001 – handing Dallas win his first ever NHRA Wally.

10616599_10152238196771160_6008625048878765327_nWhile I was disappointed with my .004 red — seeing Dallas get his first Wally more than made up for it.

I think technically I’m now in first place — by virtue of the small points on my 2nd place Qualifying. We will have to throw out our worse race at the end of the season, and mine is going to be 75 points higher than Dorn’s — so I’ll need to go one round more than him at Indy to get the 2014 Championship.

Dallas and I would like to thank Fuelabs, Royal Purple, TTI Exhaust, and Mancini Racing for their product sponsorship. Running two cars with the average race 1200 miles away is very expensive. We don’t do this for the money. If we won and runnered up every race on the schedule — we’d still lose money — so we very much appreciate the help while we’re living the dream of father and son racing together while we have the chance.

Wally Gets a Younger Brother

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURESMoparStyle Racing Sponsor Report

Joliet 2014

Dave Schultz – July 17, 2014

This month started with troubles — but ended very well.

In mid June, while on a week long Motorcycle trip with son Dallas and a bud (Doug Duell), I had a non-motorcycle related accident tearing the ligament on my right thumb — requiring surgery. I had put off surgery until July 18 (tomorrow) to be able to make the Joliet race, and have the first cast changed to smaller in time for the Norwalk race in late August.

The Whale had been in Indiana having some chassis issues corrected. Route 66 in Joliet has never been a good track for me — and the last time the Whale was out was at that track last July — when a virtually new $24K engine blew up. The backup car’s (Vitamin C) new engine was pretty gutless (yes we have a different engine builder now) at St. Louis — and a tear-down showed some valve-train issues. Dallas was dropping new engine in it when I received a call that the Whale could be picked up on the way to Joliet – albeit untested. I wasn’t exactly thrilled taking an untested car with a new Indy engine and a transmission Dallas had just rebuilt — and I’d not driven in over a year, but there was no option.

10544367_10202286814267494_3638269864056092708_nreplacing 4 chassis batteries in Indiana

We left on Tuesday, and the trip to Indiana to get the Whale was uneventful — except having to replace the 4 chassis batteries of on the Freightliner. The Whale was loaded Wednesday early afternoon and we proceeded to Joliet with our fingers crossed that the Illinois State Police (recently picking on drag racers) would leave us alone. Thursday morning we were let onto the track and set up our pits. The chassis on the Whale needed to be recertified, and the car was teched in. There was no testing Thursday.

10463031_10202296350465893_6116882337997948648_nOur Pits
10489804_10202295307999832_2614790868746810607_nCockpit View of Whale

On Friday, racers were allowed a maximum of two time trials between 9AM and 11AM. I was one of the few to get both in. I had to remove my cast to get racing gloves on. In my first pass I launched at 2500 and shifted at 7000 — and had a -.034 light from driving a slower reacting Vitamin C — and my time was 9.749. While that’s a good time for my 9.75 Index — I had no weight in the car and the weather was going to get real bad Saturday and Sunday. I also had some switch-box and shift light problems — but they were quickly resolved when traced to a couple of unconnected grounds, which must have been disconnected for welding. I hot lapped back into the 90 minute long Time Trial line and changed my launch to 2000 RPM and shifted at 7400 RPM. That slowed my light down to an equally horrible .090 but the ET improved to 9.62. We made two qualifying hits on Friday evening, and I broke out in the first but made it to the #2 Qualifying spot in the 2nd. I was able to fix my lights.

10429339_10202300511649920_1614758100706418786_nLadder pitting Dallas & I in First Round

10527268_10152154722126160_9099707792298969601_nIt rained hard Friday night and Saturday morning. The track finally went Hot at 3PM — but the third qualifying was cancelled and we went right to Eliminations. There were 23 racers in the NSS Class and the pairing had Dallas and I having to again race each other in the first round. I came out on top on that round. The next round had Jeff Frees against me. I had a 0-2 record against Jeff — but improved it to 1-2. Racing stopped at 9PM due to dew making the track too slippery.

joliet2014Our Track Photos at the Event 10329795_904464789580353_2362068486660701461_o

I rained again Saturday night. The track personnel did well to dry the track and racing started at about 9:30AM. In the Third round (Quarters) I was paired against the points leader Barry Dorn, who was ahead of me (I’m in second) by about 330 points. It was an epiphany for me — win to cut the lead — or lose and be out of the race. I was fortunate to win that round. The 4th round (Semis) I had the Competition Bye for being the #2 Qualifier.

10537382_10202306140110628_2678597525051859927_nCar got faster ever pass. Had 130 pounds weight in for my Bye

In the final I matched with DW Hopkins and I was the winner of that round — and presented with my second ever Wally. I think this year has a total of four (maybe five) opportunities for a Wally.

I believe this puts me less than one round out of first place.

2014 Dave Duell Classic – Sponsor Report

Dave Schultz – June 2, 2014DDC2014In my opinion, the Dave Duell Classic is the biggest and bestist NSS race of the year. I’ve only missed one (including the years before it was renamed the DDC) since 2003 — and that was because I was third in the 2008 points race, with Atlanta scheduled for the same weekend. The race was obviously named after Dave Duell (in 2006, after he’d died the year before). Dave was most likely the biggest promoter of the NSS class.

The trip to the track in St. Louis was fortunately uneventful. We left at 9AM on Wednesday and arrived at noon Thursday to set up pits, establish credentials, and tech the cars in. I was relegated to the backup car (Vitamin C) again, as the Wagon’s new motor (using milled 572 heads) had the #2 & #7 tubes of the custom headers touching the torsion bars — and not enough time to get it fixed. The wagon is now at the Chassis shop in Indiana — and will hopefully be ready by the race in Joliet.

10334278_10201980966341487_4670336023151307943_nsetting up pits on Thursday

The Big Red Ram that Dallas drives had a brand new engine in it. It made 906hp on the Dyno, which was about 10hp more than the previous motor. However it didn’t really translate well to the track for some unknown reason. The weather was bad for race motors and many of the 62 drivers ran an index slower than usual. Off the trailer, the car ran a high 9.6 — which isn’t good if you’re running the 9.50 Index. With tuning and we once got it into the 9.4s without weight — but Dallas was going to have to depend on treeing the competition to win rounds.

The Vitamin C ran a 11.006 (on a 11.00 Index) off the trailer in the first time trial — but that was without weight so it wasn’t going to be enough. That car hasn’t run as well as it use to — prior to having to replace the block and pistons. I use to have to add 200+ pounds of weight — but not anymore. There was no more to be found on this car.

Friday was qualifying. Dallas was 21 and I was 20 of 62 in qualifying. I was less than 1 round out of first and wanted to qualify high, but the competition was extra tough. 6/1000 of a second off your index only got me 20th. Saturday started Class Eliminations, where cars run only cars in their index. Dallas was in the 2nd largest (of 8) index and I was in the third. Dallas had won the FX class (and the $1000 purse) the previous two years, and I’d won in three different indexes in past years — but it wasn’t to happen for either of us this year.

Sunday was the Big Show. The air was horrible and the weather station said that neither of our cars would be running the number — so we were going to have to depend on our reaction times, which had actually been pretty good for the both of us thus far. We took the 2nd battery and passenger seat (75 pounds) out of Dallas’ car. Dallas and I both won our first rounds because of good lights. As a further bonus to me, Jim Netherland took out 00-Joe Ewing (who was less than one round ahead of me in 1st) with a .000 light. In the second round I had Jim Netherland, and I think Dallas had Doug Duell — tough rounds for the both of us. I had a .043 light to Jim’s .053 — and it was enough for me to get a .002 win in a very close match. Dallas wasn’t so lucky. This had me now in first place by a little more than a round.

For the third round, I had Tom Hoffman. The weather station said I was going to be too slow by .010 so I took out the second battery — but I would still have to have a half a tenth better light to have any chance. Tom was on his game with a .009 light — and I was out.

Barry Dorn had been in third place — but his winning five rounds and Runnering Up has him leaping in front of me.

10309625_10202024592752120_3137805519433213204_nI need to really have my cars cooperating for the rest of the season. We have another pair of carburetors we’ll try on Dallas’s car; and a better intake, fresher convertor, and different rear shocks to try on the Vitamin C (in case I take it to Joliet). Because the season is only half over and the Finals in Indy have 1.5 times the points — anyone in the Top Ten could win — as of right now.

Progress is coming along on the “Texas Thug” (formerly the black Coronet), which will replace the Vitamin C as the back up car for 2015. Paint is done and the new Proglass front and back windscreens are ready to install. I just bought fiberglass bumpers that I’ll have wrapped in a chrome wrap. The 572ci motor and transmission are fresh and ready.

10410189_10202017861303838_7841283863005944238_nWe hope to have it fully assembled and Tested over the winter. In 2015, the Vitamin C will be restored, 2016 the wagon (I’ll drive the Thug) will undergo restoration, and 2017 Big Red Ram (Dallas will drive the Thug) will under go its restoration.

Finally — I’d been on a lookout for a 65 Coronet Sedan (post car) that hadn’t been tubbed or back-halved to make into a A990 “Tribute”. While at the DDC I bought Gene’ Will’s “Junkyard Fugitive” and drove back up to Illinois to get it after returning to Texas from the Classic. While I might let my daughter race it locally before putting her into the Vitamin C — I’m already collecting parts to restore as a A990.

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Click here for the thread of the play-by-play of the Dave Duell Classic.

Click here for the Dave Duell Classic Driver’s Dinner photos

Car Art

An artist’s rendition of three our four NSS Drag cars.

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 Click here if you’d like your car drawn in markers on 8X11″ posterboard for $60

Electric Trailer Brakes Explained

This is copyright work — however you may post on another site ONLY if you post the article in it’s entirety, give credit to the author, AND post a reference link to this thread. If you can’t do that — then don’t post this work elsewhere.

BY Dave Schultz (The Old Hippie)

In this “White Paper” I will try to give a brief explanation of how they work, and how I went about replacing them on my five year old Stacker trailer with three 7,000# axles. I have about 110,000 miles on the trailer and the trailer sometime last year stopped having effective trailer brakes. I was getting a signal from the brake controller to the trailer, so I pulled the left side center hub and found the shoes had no lining left. I decided I would completely replace all six brake assemblies — keeping the drums, but replace the inner and our bearings, and use the higher temp red disc brake grease.

The following walk the reader through the process I took — along with photos.

First, and explanation of how electric brakes are in order.

In the towing vehicle there is a brake controller. The controller allows you to dial in the amount of voltage sent to the trailer’s brakes — based on the number of brakes and the weight in the trailer. Some of the newer controllers have a gyro in them that apply variable amounts of voltage based on the inertia of rig’s stopping. That’s to say that harder stops apply more voltage while slower stops apply less. The more common and less expensive has the driver setting the voltage — giving more voltage for more weight and number of braking wheels, to just below the point of locking up the brakes. A good starting point is usually the setting of 1 per braking axle.

The brake assembly is much like the old shoe/drum system, but with an electric magnet replacing the hydraulic wheel cylinder. In the case of my trailer with 7,000# axles — 12″ X 2″ shoes are typically used. A pair of shoes are about $25 and a replacement magnet is also about $25 per wheel. Since my trailer has high miles and I’ never close to home — I decided to take the route of buying the entire assemblies with not only the new shoes and magnets — but new backing plates and hardware. They’re set up and ready to go — and I paid about $85 per wheel on Amazon with free “Prime” delivery. There is a also a time savings of just R&R 5 bolts that hold the assembly onto the axle. There is a left and right side assembly.

I started by only doing one wheel first — to make sure that all of the parts fit before tearing into three wheels at a time. I choose the right center wheel. I’d recently bought new tires — and the knuckle heads cross threaded one of the lug nuts. So I had to run around looking for replacements. They’re 9/16 diameter with .690 knurl that are 2.5″ long — and don’t waste your time like I did trying auto parts stores — they won’t have the right ones. Head right to a trailer parts seller.

After setting the 2-man record for number of trailer blowouts more than 500 miles from home — I’ve learned to have (and carry) a large air pumped bottle jack. We always have a portable Honda generator and air compressor. You should also use a couple (three in my case) heavy duty jack stands. Also needed:

* Lug wrench or impact wrench
* Large screw driver and small deadblow hammer to loosen and remove dust cap
* Needle-nose pliers if there is a cotter pin holding bearing nut — or the large screw driver if a clip
* Large Cresant wrench for the bearing nut
* Lots of shop towels
* Grease (cant mix red with black, red with green, or black with green)
* Wire cutter/stripper and connectors
* Replacement parts

In my case I also replaced the bearings. I will clean and pack in grease the better ones to put in my trailer spare parts bin — along with the best pair of brake assemblies — in case I have to make a repair on the road.

As previously stated — I had to break a stud with a cross threaded nut to get the wheel off. Actually happier finding it now — rather on the side of the road. The stud was broken with a lot of grunt and a long breaker bar.

I usually like to push and pull on the drum after the tire is off to get an idea of the bearing condition based on the play and feel of the play.

The drums are held on much like a car’s front drum. Take a small dead blow to give the dust cover a soft rap to where you can then get a large screw driver in to pry off. They dent easily — so use a couple soft wraps rather than a hard one.

Behind the dust cover is a bearing retainer nut held in place with a retainer clip that can be carefully pried off with a screw driver. You might have a Castle nut help in place with a cotter pin instead. Once you get whatever is retaining the nut from backing out — the nut should be only finger tight. Remove it, pull the drum toward you just a little than push back to pull off the outer bearing. You don’t want to drop the bearing to the ground if you’re going to reuse. I put the retainer, nut washer, and bearing in the dust cap. Once you have the outer bearing, pull the drum off and put somewhere that dirt wont get kicked into the grease.

At this point — I usually wipe all of the excess grease off the part I put in the dust cap — and the dust cap — and set in the parts washer to soak a little while I replace the brake assembly.

I replace the bearings (again keeping a cleaned and repacked set in a baggie for a spare) — but if you don’t you need to make a decision on if you want to clean and repack with higher temp red grease, or just say screw it and do nothing with them. If you change from black to red — you need to completely clean all of the black grease from hub, drum and bearings and greases don’t mix.

In my situation — I was very surprised to see that the shoes weren’t that bad on the right side — when the left center had no lining left. WHen I later pulled the other two wheels on the right side — they too had minimal wear. I’m going to assume that these bare wires going through the backing plate rendered the right side useless at some point — and I only had left brakes until they wore out. When I get the the left side — I’ll post photos.

I squirted a little WD40 on the five nuts holding the brake assembly on — and removed them. I also removed all grease off the spindle, cleaned with compressed air and liberally sprayed with brake cleaner. We use a lot of brake cleaner at our shop — and about 3 times a year O’Reileys sells it for $1.99 a can (usually $3.99) if you buy by the case. It is on sale today and I picked up another 3 cases.

I then bolted on the new assembly

Again there is a left and a right side

I used a punch and 1 pounder to bang out the broken stud from the front, then bang a new one through the back. I could have used the press — but this worked just as well. I then pulled the rear seal and bearing and cleaned out all of the black grease. I sprayed and wiped the inside of the drum with brake clean, and did the same with the machined area of the drum. I packed the inner bearing with red grease, slopped a little more on it, and installed with seal flush to the back of the drum.

I installed the drum back onto the spindle, installed the packed outer bearing and washer, replaced the nut to tight — then backed off one nut corner to make finger tight after ensuring drum was fully engaged, and then the retainer. I then started pumping red grease into the Bearing Buddy fitting while spinning the drum until a saw grease just start to come through the outer bearing — and then put the dust cap on with a couple soft blows with a small dead blow hammer.

again — when I pulled the other two drums the shoes where in good shape — telling me that there was an electrical problem, early on with the right side.

I hope this helps someone better understand how to check their brakes and bearings and maintain them properly.

After the wires are connected and the other two wheels and completed — we’ll ensure the hubs don’t turn with the truck running and brakes applied — and do turn when brakes are applied. Then replace tires in a rotated position, and on to the other side. After all six wheels are done — I take for a 25 mile ride and then squeeze a little more grease into the bearing buddies.

Good time to mention that a wheel bearing problem on the road is a royal PITA — and can result in a fire before you even realize that the trailer had the failure. This most often occurs from trailers sitting for a long time and grease drying up. Good to take trailer for frequent rides and keep the grease fresh. Check the bearings by jacking a side in the air and push pull toward you the wheel to see if there’s too much play. Almost any play will be too much.

580 on the Dyno

Although I didn’t have many passes on it, I sent my 2012 motor to get inspected and fixed by the new engine builder after its twin turned into a $30,000 paper weight last year.

Here’s it on the Dyno today

Nostalgia Super Stock Racing With A 1960 Plymouth Wagon